How to Tell if a Diamond is Real or Fake

Diamonds sharply bend or refract - meaning that the light that passes through them. This results in the strikingly brilliant appearance of the diamond, Diamonds do not absorb light, but reflects it back out. Stones like glass and quartz sparkle less – that is because they have a lower refractive index and the stones absorb the light that goes into them. It is not possible to alter the inherent property of the stone so even an expert diamond cutter cannot enhance the brilliance of a stone. When you take a close-up look at the stone’s refractivity, you should be able to tell whether it is the real thing or a fake.

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If the stone is not set in a setting and you are able to handle it, here are a few ways to test the authenticity of a diamond.

The line test:

Turn the stone upside down then place it on a straight drawn line or lettering on a piece of paper. The line or lettering must go exactly through the middle of the upside-down diamond. If you can actually see the line or the lettering through the stone, even if the line is bent, it probably isn't a diamond. A diamond that is well-cut will bend the light so sharply that you will not be able to see the line. (But keep in mind that there are a few exceptions: if the cut is disproportionate, (too deep or too shallow) the print will still be visible through a real diamond.)

The dot test:

Draw a small black dot with a pen on a piece of white paper. Place the diamond stone upside down and directly over the centre of the dot. Now look down on it. If you see a circular reflection in the stone, it is not a diamond. The dot will not be visible through a real diamond.

The girdle test:

The outside ‘rim’ of a stone is called a girdle and all stones have them. Place the stone upside down on a piece of white paper. Should you see a definitive ring on the outside of the stone it is probably an imitation. Remember, the light through a well-cut diamond will reflect out - with an imitation stone it absorbs the light and concentrates on the girdle.

If the stone is set in a piece of jewellery:

The breath test:

Put the stone in front of your mouth and breathe on it. If the stone stays fogged for a couple of seconds, it is most probably a fake diamond. A real diamond will disperse the heat from your breath instantaneously and will not fog up easily.

Suggestion: Do this test on a stone that you know for certain to be a real diamond first. Watch how the real one stays clear. while the fake one fogs over. When you breathe on imitation stones repeatedly, you will notice condensation start to build up. With each breath, a fake diamond will fog up more, while the real one will still be clean and clear.

Check the mount and setting.

A real diamond will not be set in cheap metal. There are regulations for this:
All jewelry items should have stamps inside the setting indicating real gold or platinum (9CT, 14CT, 18CT, 375, 585, 750, 900, 950, PT, Plat)- this is a good indication,A ‘C.Z.’ (Cubic Zirconia) stamp is a give-away that the center stone is not a real diamond. Cubic Zirconia is a lab grown stone that looks like a real diamond. The general rule is that a ring stamped SIL or 925, (Sterling silver) will not be set with diamonds, but rather with Cubic Zirconia.
If you are still uncertain whether your stone is real or a fake, please take the stone to a Diamond dealer for expert viewing

Diamond dealers have strong magnification Loupes in their toolkit that they use to view the inside stones.

Did you know that each diamond has its own unique characteristics that a diamond dealer looks for. It is mostly exceedingly small to obvious natural inclusions that give your diamond its very own classification. Under the Loupe magnification a diamond expert can also pick-up rainbow colors in the diamond which you would not find in a clear cubic zirconia as CZ is completely colorless.

In the unlikely event that a diamond expert is still not convinced of your stone’s characteristics, and the stone is in a setting, they will ask you to remove the stone under your supervision to view it in its natural unset state.