All about chikankari embroidery - Saadgi

Chikankari is a traditional type of classic white floral embroidery, delicately worked by raw thread and needle over an assortment of fabrics such as organza, georgette, silk, muslin, cotton, etc. The phrase ‘Chikan’ has been taken through the Persian language that is the Indian court language enlisted by the Mughals.As, embroidery fully developed along with the times yet it remained graceful, detailed, and delicate. It takes 1 to 6 months of the process for making the chikan garment. The garment is cut down in a certain shape, along with the pre-embroidery work for attaining the certain embroidery shape. After artisans printed the design over a semi-stitched fabric then the needlework was started up. An inspection is performed for finding further issues at this phase. The fabric is then washed and completes the fashion!

Each stitch in this chikankari kurta isn't rebuilt by another stitch. The structure is finished by a similar stitch. For instance, the design outline could be completed in just a single stitch such as Canberra, which is a chain stitch. Chikankari consisted of incredible teamwork. The work needs crafters for printing, cutting, blocking, stitching, jali work, along with washerman. This is the main industry of Lucknow that supports chikankari artisans and women.

Making of elegant Chikankari embroidery work

There are several essential steps in completing the Chikankari on the garment.

Step 1 - Cutting

At first, the tailor cuts the garment to the desired shape

Step 2 -Stitching

After cutting the fabric, artisans perform the stitching process for giving block printers an opinion regarding the designer placements for printing.

step 3 - Block Printing

The first phase where designing is created over the garment as you like. The fabric is cut as required then uses several wooden block stamps, where designs are then stamped in blue ink over the garment.

Step 4 - Embroidery

Then the main part is embroidery. Here, the fabric is firmly fixed by using a small frame named ‘Adda’, and needlework is performed over the outline of the pattern. The qualified artisans pick their stitch depending on their region, the size, and kind of motifs used.

Normally, there is a mix of unique Lucknow Chikankari stitches utilized in a pattern that involves sazi, zanzeera, hool, bakhiya, Tai Chi, and more. There are more than 35 unique chikan stickers where 30 stitches are mostly used these days. These stickies fall below three unique types- raised, embroidered, and flat stitches.

• Jali: A specialty of Lucknow; this technique uses minute buttonhole stitches with a wide blunt needle to make a Jali or net where the thread is never drawn through the fabric, making it impossible to distinguish the front from its backside.

• Tepchi: This is a long-running stitch that is sewed over the right-hand garment side that sets the motif outline.

• Bakhiya: This is even referred to as shadow stitching; the delicate thread work is performed at the fabric back side to form the outline along with the color tint to be noticed over the garment front side.

• Zanzeera: A chain stitch is designed with petals and leaves outlined mainly when they are bound in the structure.

• Hool: A disconnected eyelet stitch that is utilized for designing the flower heart..

• Rahat: Rahet is a sole stitch method for creating plant stem patterns, yet it can have a double stitch by utilizing the Bakhiya method.

• Keel Kangan: A stitch that is primarily utilized for adorning petals and floral motifs.

• Khatua: This is known to be a great type of Bakhiya that is utilized for Paisley's and flowers motifs, motif's firstly weaved over a calico then positioned over the main fabric.

• pechni: A different kind of chikan embroidery that performs tai chi work at the bottom. Tepchi shaded by thread entwining on it through a normal way by getting the impact as a lever spring.

• Murri: A minute rice design utilized in delicate and simple patterns.

• Phanda: Elegant millet fashioned stitches which are utilized to create grape and flower vines.

Step 5- Washing

A very vital phase. After the garment undergoes every step it becomes dirty so washing is done properly.

Step 6- Finishing

Bobbing more threads, repairing flaws, and adding finishing touches over fabrics are the important steps.

It is always worth a shot to look at Chikankari that makes Chikankari different from others. If you are thriving to begin your chic game through fashion, Chikankari is the best choice for every fashionista. Feel luxurious and comfy by adapting the Saadgi Chikankari kurtas, bottoms, short Kurtis to your wardrobe.